Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Alcohol & Skincare

Many misperceptions exist about the use of alcohol in personal care products. People think of the drying effects and harshness of rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol or they think of the dehydrating effects of alcohol found in liquor and wine (ethanol). In fact, these alcohols are only one type in a very large group of chemicals that have many qualities and functions. There are many alcohols that are good for the skin by helping deliver the benefits of moisturizing skin care products, while some alcohols can be irritating or drying to the skin and hair.

Most alcohols that deliver benefits to the skin are known as fatty alcohols and range in function. Fatty alcohols are a common component of waxes, mostly as esters with fatty acids but also as alcohols themselves. Some alcohols, like panthenol and propylene glycol, enhance a product's moisturizing qualities because they bind water to the skin. Stearyl alcohol acts as an emollient and an emulsifier. Tocopherol (also known as vitamin E) is well known for its antioxidant and moisturizing properties. Several vitamins, including vitamin A and vitamin B5, are alcohols.


Some alcohols are not beneficial for daily skin care. Harsh alcohols, including rubbing alcohol or ethanol, are extremely drying, but serve an antibacterial function. SD-alcohol 40 is a blend of ethyl alcohol (drinking alcohol), specially denatured to make it unfit to drink. When used in skin care products, these alcohols can dry and irritate the skin because of their high evaporation rate.


If you read on a label that a product is "alcohol-free" it means that the product does not contain ethyl alcohol, which is known for its harsh, drying effects. However, that same product may contain fatty alcohols, which have much different effects on skin. (The FDA describes how the term is used in the cosmetic industry: http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-227.html.)

Allison B. Kontur
www.BathBodySupply.com

Monday, June 29, 2009

New: Behenyl Alcohol (Pastilles)

Behenyl Alcohol is an emulsifier that helps to keep the oil and liquid parts of a solution from separating. Other functions include altering the thickness of a liquid, increasing foaming capacity, and stabilizing foams. When applied to the skin, it leaves a smooth after-feel and helps prevent moisture loss.

Many products incorporate this ingredient because of its unique sensory properties and non-greasy feel after application. It can be found in wide variety of products such as face/body lotions, creams, scrubs, deodorant, lipstick and foundation.

There is a tendency to categorize all alcohols as drying and harmful because the name includes the word “alcohol.” In truth, behenyl alcohol has the opposite effect, since it effectively emulsifies and seals in moisture into the skin. Furthermore, it is neither irritating nor toxic.

Allison B. Kontur
www.BathBodySupply.com

Thursday, June 25, 2009

New: Aloe Vera 200x (Powder)

Aloe vera is a stemless or very short-stemmed succulent plant. The stems are thick and fleshy, green to grey-green, and some varieties show white flecks on the upper and lower stem surfaces.

Scientific evidence for the cosmetic and therapeutic effectiveness of Aloe vera is limited and typically contradictory. Despite this, the cosmetic and alternative medicine industries regularly make claims regarding the soothing, moisturizing and healing properties of Aloe vera.


It is common practice for cosmetic companies to add sap or other derivatives from Aloe vera to products such as makeup, tissues, moisturizers, soaps, sunscreens, incense, razors and shampoos.


The
200x designation refers to the fact that it takes 200 pounds of the Aloe vera inner gel fillets to make one pound of aloe extract. This concentrated aloe is made with the intent to retain as much of the plant’s natural makeup as possible. This is done by never filtering the product, thus leaving the natural component as a whole, and by never letting the product reach a temperature over 99° Fahrenheit. This low-heat dehydration system ensures that the long polysaccharide chains remain intact, as they are found in nature.

The powder form is more economical than the liquid and not as susceptible to spoilage.
Reconstituted Aloe vera powder should be kept refrigerated or preserved to maintain shelf-life. Adding water will not turn Aloe vera powder into a gel.

Allison B. Kontur

www.BathBodySupply.com

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

New: Allantoin USP (Powder)

Allantoin is present in botanical extracts of the comfrey plant. Allantoin is frequently present in toothpaste, mouthwash, and other oral hygiene products, in shampoos, lipsticks, anti-acne products, sun care products, and clarifying lotions, various cosmetic lotions and creams, and other cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. Allantoin has not been proven scientifically to reduce the appearance of aging.

Usage of Allantoin is from
.5% to 2%. To add Allantoin into an emulsion product, the emulsion is made and then Allantoin is added when the product temperature is below 90F. Good mixing is required to thoroughly disperse this additive.

The
U.S. Food and Drug Administration acknowledges that Allantoin at 0.5 to 2.0% concentration can be used for the prevention and treatment of chafed, chapped, cracked, sunburned or wind burned skin or lips, cold sores, fever blisters and diaper rash, but considers such explicit claims as drug claims.

When Allantoin is added to a personal care product and
no claims are made the product remains a cosmetic.

Allison B. Kontur

www.BathBodySupply.com

Friday, June 19, 2009

Recipe: Hair Pomade

Pomade is a greasy or waxy substance that is used to style hair. Pomade makes hair look slick and shiny. Unlike hair spray and hair gel, pomade does not dry and often takes several washes to remove.

You will need:

7.5 ml (1.5 tsp) Soy Wax Pastilles
60 ml (2 oz) Shea Butter Refined - White
22.5 ml (0.75 oz) Castor Oil (1st Press)
1 ml Rosemary Essential Oil
1 ml
Lemon Essential Oil
1 ml
Lavender, Bulgarian Essential Oil


Phase 1: Combine oils & butters in a double boiler over low heat and allow to melt until clear. Remove from heat.

Phase 2: Add essential oils to slightly cooled oil/butter mixture and stir well to incorporate before pouring into containers. Allow to cool completely before capping.

To Use: Pomade works best to control frizz and add texture if it's applied in thin layers, added only to the bottom third of the hair strand. It can be used on either wet or dry hair. If you have fine or thin hair, pomade might not be the right product for you as it sometimes adds weight to the hair. It works well for people with thick, coarse or wavy hair.

Allison B. Kontur
www.BathBodySupply.com

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Recipe: Pre-Shampoo Conditioning Treatment

Dry hair used to mean messy hot oil treatments (V05 anyone?). When it comes to taming my tresses I prefer something with a little more body that won't drip all over the place, but still gets the job done. This recipe is thick enough to stay put without making hair greasy.

You will need:


3 oz
Olive Butter
1.5 oz
Avocado Oil (Cosmetic Grade)
1 oz
Vegetable Glycerin
5 ml (1 tsp)
Oat Straw, Tincture (Organic)
5 ml (1 tsp)
Polysorbate 20
1 oz
Behenyl Alcohol
2.5 ml (1/2 tsp)
Parsley Powder
5 ml (1 tsp)
Tocopherol T-50, Natural Vitamin E (Antioxidant)
1 ml
Rosemary Essential Oil
1 ml
Lemon Essential Oil
1 ml
Lavender, Bulgarian Essential Oil

Phase 1:
In a double boiler over low/medium heat, melt olive butter and behenyl alcohol until clear. Remove from heat, add avocado oil and set aside.


Phase 2:
In a small glass or stainless steel mixing bowl, combine vegetable glycerin, oat straw tincture, polysorbate 20, parsley powder & tocopherol until thoroughly blended. Set aside.


Phase 3:
Slowly add room temperature ingredients from phase 2 into warm ingredients from phase 1. Mix well to incorporate. Set aside and allow to cool.


Phase 4:
When mixture has cooled slightly and begins to firm up, add essential oils & blend again to incorporate all ingredients. Allow product to cool completelyand mix one final time before packaging in an airtight container.


To Use:
Massage treatment into wet hair and scalp, pulling through from scalp to ends. Leave treatment on hair for at least 5 minutes or up to 20 minutes for maximum conditioning. Shampoo and rinse well.


Allison B. Kontur

www.BathBodySupply.com

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Spotlight: Purely Decadent Coconut Milk Ice Cream

I talked about making a guilt-free banana split the other night on Twitter, and since then I've been getting requests for the ingredients. I am lactose-intolerant and sensitive to soy so I use Coconut Milk Ice Cream so there is no stomachache later!

This recipe is super simple and easily modified. Additionally, it is vegetarian and vegan friendly!


You will need:


Purely Decadent Coconut Milk Ice Cream (We used Vanilla Bean)
1 Organic Banana, Sliced

1/2 cup Mixed Organic Berries, Rinsed

Malley's Famous Fudge Sauce (Vegetarian) -or- AH!laska Chocolate Sauce (Vegan)

Scoop Coconut Milk Ice Cream into a bowl lined with sliced bananas. Top with berries. Add fudge sauce or chocolate sauce to your preference. Enjoy!


Allison B. Kontur

www.BathBodySupply.com

Monday, June 15, 2009

Recipe: Swimmers-Friend Shampoo

Summertime means swimming pools and chlorine which unfortunately leads to a slew of hair-related issues like split-ends, color changes and chlorine build-up. This formula contains coffee which absorbs odors and EDTA (Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic Acid) which works like a chemical claw to help remove chlorine from your hair.

You will need:


4 oz Fresh Brewed Organic Coffee (Room Temperature)
4 oz
Bubble Wash Concentrate
1.25 ml (1/4 tsp) Spearmint Essential Oil
1.25 ml (1/4 tsp)
Peppermint Essential Oil

Phase 1: Brew coffee using distilled water and organic coffee to prevent adding additional minerals (from tap water/spring water/well water) or pesticides (used heavily on conventional coffee plantations). Set aside and allow to cool to room temperature.

Phase 2: In a sterile stainless steel or glass mixing bowl, combine cooled coffee and Bubble Wash Concentrate. Stir well to completely incorporate the ingredients. Your product will be dark brown to black in color.

Phase 3:
Add essential oils and mix well. Remember that haircare formulas are used close to the eyes. You should use half of the amount of fragrance you would normally use in other formulations to avoid irritating sensitive scalp tissue or mucus membranes. The mint blend in this formula will slightly tingle and help tone down the coffee scent. It can be omitted if preferred.


FYI: Allow formula to sit for up to 24 hours to allow for full incorporation of ingredients. Then package in airtight containers until use.

Allison B. Kontur

www.BathBodySupply.com

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Recipe: Electric Pre-Shave

For those who prefer the electric razor to an actual blade, electric pre-shave can be a skin saver. This will remove skin oil and make the beard stand out from your face as much as possible.

You will need:


4 oz Witch Hazel Distillate

15 ml (1 tbs) Vegetable Glycerine

5 ml (1 tsp) Oat Straw Tincture, Organic
2.5 ml (1/2 tsp) Camphor Essential Oil


Combine ingredients in a PET plastic bottle. Cap and shake well to blend.


To use:
Apply a liberal amount of pre-shave to clean hands and rub into facial hair. Allow to dry completely before shaving.

Allison B. Kontur

www.BathBodySupply.com

Recipe: Sport Balm (a la Body Glide)

Before I became a runner, I had no knowledge of BodyGlide Skin Lubricant nor did I have any idea why anyone would need such a product. Over the five years since I became a runner, I've learned most of the reasons why many runners swear by this product!

If you suffer from chafing, blisters, rashes and other sport-activated skin irritations, our sports balm recipe may just become your best friend! I don't add fragrance, although I have added
Lavender and Tea Tree Essential Oils in the past.

You will need:


1 oz
Shea Butter, Unrefined (Ivory)
1 oz
Aloe Butter
1 ml
Allantoin USP
3 ml Cyclomethicone
1 oz
Behenyl Alcohol
3 ml
Tocopherol T-50 (Antioxidant)

Phase 1:
In a double boiler over medium heat, melt shea butter, aloe butter and behenyl alcohol until completely liquified. This may take some time to ensure all of the behenyl alcohol pastilles are fully liquified. Remove from heat.


Phase 2: When butter mixture has cooled slightly, stir in cyclomethicone, allantoin and tocopherol. Be sure to mix well so that all ingredients are fully incorporated.

Phase 3:
Pour into lotion bar containers and allow to cool completely before capping.


Allison B. Kontur

www.BathBodySupply.com

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Recipe: Invigorating Body Wash

You will need:

4 oz Bubble Wash Concentrate
3 oz Distilled Water
1 oz Witch Hazel Distillate
5 ml (1 tsp) Seaweed Extract, Organic
1 ml Peppermint Essential Oil
1 ml Rosemary Essential Oil
0.50 ml Spearmint Essential Oil
0.50 ml Sweet Orange Essential Oil

Phase 1: In a glass or stainless steel mixing utensil, measure bubble wash concentrate. Set aside.

Phase 2: In a second stainless steel or glass mixing utensil, combine distilled water, witch hazel distillate, seaweed extract and essential oils. Mix well to combine.

Phase 3: Combine Phase 2 with Phase 1, stirring well to incorporate. Mixture may need to sit up to 24 hours prior to packaging.

Note: This base must be diluted with water due to the chemical composition. It may cause skin irritation if not diluted. It will remain thick once the water is added.

Allison B. Kontur
www.BathBodySupply.com

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Recipe: Herbal Facial Toner

You will need:

6 oz Herbal Body Mist
2 oz Witch Hazel Distillate
5 ml (1 tsp) Calendula, Tincture (Organic)
1 ml Tea Tree Essential Oil
1 ml Rosemary Essential Oil
0.50 ml Peppermint Essential Oil

Combine all ingredients in a bottle with a fine mist sprayer application. Shake well to incorporate ingredients.

To Use: Spray directly onto a disposable cotton round. Smooth over facial skin and neck, avoiding eye area. Follow with a light moisturizer.

Note: Do not spray directly into face as product can irritate eye tissue and mucous membranes.

Allison B. Kontur
www.BathBodySupply.com

Monday, June 8, 2009

Recipe: Pre-Shave Oil

You will need:

3 oz
Olive Oil (Refined 'A' Grade)
2 oz
Castor Oil (1st Press)
1 oz
Jojoba Oil, Clear (Organic)
1 oz
Kukui Nut Oil (Organic)
1 oz
Rosehip Oil (Virgin)
2.5 ml (1/2 tsp)
Frankincense & Myrrh Natural Fragrance Oil

Combine all ingredients in a PET plastic bottle. Cap and shake well to incorporate all ingredients.


To Use:
Massage a little oil into facial hair. Top with shave cream or gel, shave.


FYI:
Oils help to soften facial hair and prepare the skin for shaving. This helps prevent razor burn, especially for those with heavy facial hair growth or those prone to bumps or in-grown hairs.


Allison B. Kontur

www.BathBodySupply.com

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Recipe: After-Sun Body Balm

You will need:

4 oz Aloe Butter
3 oz Shea Olein
1 oz Calendula Oil, Infusion
0.50 oz Japanese Green Tea Extract
1 oz Beeswax Pastilles, White - Unrefined
4 oz Distilled Water
1.25 ml (1/4 tsp) Borax Powder
5 ml (1 tsp) Tinosan SDC (Preservative)
5 ml (1 tsp) Lavender, Bulgarian Essential Oil

Phase 1: Combine the aloe butter, shea olein and beeswax in a double boiler and heat gently until the beeswax has completely melted. Set Aside.

Phase 2: In a separate container, carefully combine the water, green tea extract and borax powder and heat until very hot, but not boiling.

Phase 3: Add calendula oil to Phase 1 and pour the entire mixture into a deep glass container with high walls (alternately you could use a blender reserved for formulating) and begin stirring slowly with an immersion (stick) blender.

Phase 4: While still mixing the oil phase, slowly add the water solution and mix on high until a medium thickness cream has formed. Allow to cool slightly before adding preservative. If you are using fragrance, it can be added at this time.

Phase 4: Pour cooled lotion into a sterilized container and allow to cool completely before applying your closure.

Allison B. Kontur
www.BathBodySupply.com

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Spotlight: Virgil's Soda

I am a professed sugar junkie. In all actuality, the reason I run nearly every day is because I eat (and drink) a lot of sugar! One of my (many) sugary vices is the Virgil's line of sodas. It started with Virgil's Root Beer (also available in a convenient 5 Liter Party Keg!) which led to Virgil's Cream Soda and then to Virgil's Orange Cream Soda....but my new favorite, hands down is Virgil's Black Cherry Cream Soda!

If you want to watch your sugar intake (like I do) you can try the Diet version of Virgil's sodas sweetened with Stevia Extract!


Virgil's is a 100% natural root beer made with no artificial ingredients or preservatives and has no caffeine! Virgil's is also gluten free!

Party On!

Allison B. Kontur
www.BathBodySupply.com

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Recipe: After-Sun Bath

Sunshine is healthy when taken in moderation, but this time of year it's easy to inadvertently overdo it! When your skin has been overexposed, it may prove beneficial to soak in these readily available botanicals for relief. The following recipe should be avoided if skin is broken or weepy. Those with a sensitivity to ragweed may wish to avoid chamomile as they are members of the same family.

You will need:

6 oz Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda)
2 oz Oatmeal, Colloidal
2 oz Goats Milk Powder
1 oz Calendula Oil, Infusion
2 oz Tapioca Starch
1 oz Aloe Vera Powder
4 oz Chamomile Flowers, Dried
5 ml (1 tsp) Lavender, Bulgarian Essential Oil

Phase 1: Place tapioca starch in a blender reserved for formulating (it is helpful if your blender has a top with a removable plug in the center). Cap your blender and with blades on, pour Calendula Oil, Infusion and Essential Oil through center of lid and mix until thoroughly combined. The tapioca starch should still be powder-like in appearance and may look slightly lumpy. If it looks like a paste or has the consistency of tiny balls, you have used too much oil. (It is imperative that you weigh your ingredients for your recipe to turn out successfully.) Pour tapioca starch/oil blend into a sterile glass or stainless steel bowl and set aside.

Phase 2: Combine all other ingredients except for Chamomile Flowers in a separate glass or stainless steel mixing bowl. Mix thoroughly to incorporate all ingredients.

Phase 3: Combine Tapioca Starch mixture with the blend from Phase 2 and mix well. When all ingredients have been incorporated, add Chamomile Flowers and mix again. Package in an airtight container.

To Use: Pour approximately 8 oz dry product into lukewarm bath water and soak for up to 30 minutes.

Allison B. Kontur
www.BathBodySupply.com

Monday, June 1, 2009

Recipe: Outdoor Spray

Commercial insect repellents are, by definition, pesticides. If you research this topic online you will be sent to any number of governmental websites including the CDC (Center for Disease Control) and the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency). Because of the intended use of these class of products, they are highly regulated.

Due to the regulation of this class of product, you are required to register your "natural" bug-fighting concoction with the government and submit the formula for independent testing prior to selling it commercially. Labeling requirements for insect "repellent" products are also very different and require that the approved biopesticide (active) ingredients are listed by percentage of the formula as well as by standard INCI requirements for cosmetic ingredients labeling.

If you advertise (in print, online, by word of mouth or by any other means) that your product "kills", "repels", "protects against" or imply that the intended use of your product is to perform these functions, you are making a claim and thereby need to prove it through independent
testing and registration of your product or face intervention by the FDA, FTC and/or EPA.

If you, however, want something for personal use, there are a plethora of recipes floating around that work to varying degrees. The following blend is my personal favorite and as a runner, I see my share of annoying insect pests. This recipe is light, non-greasy, smells nice and has yet to let me down!

You will need:

4 oz Coconut Oil, Fractionated
4 oz Cyclomethicone
5 ml (1 tsp) DEET Buster Essential Oil Blend

Combine all ingredients in a bottle with a fine mist sprayer application. Shake well to incorporate. I keep a bottle in each car so it is always handy!

FYI: Because this essential oil blend is a proprietary formula, your label will read as follows:

Ingredients: Fractionated Coconut (Cocos nucifera) Oil, Cyclomethicone & Fragrance.

Allison B. Kontur
www.BathBodySupply.com